January
January 1 - 6, 2001: No Guests
Thursday, January 4, 2001
Happy New Year! Seems I should have time to write more this
time of year but...I just can’t seem to get to it. Weather
has been just spectacular, days in the 40’s sun factor
of 65, nights are around 10.
Lyndsey got back for a short stay on the 1st. She had done
a whirlwind tour of the east coast and then got caught in the
ice storms in the mid west on her way back. The next morning
we were up at daylight and riding by 8:00. Following cattle tracks
that I had seen over the previous few weeks while checking horses.
We made a huge loop down to Snow Lake, then up a rough elk trail
along the side of a canyon, onto Loco mtn. Here we found 3 bulls
and a pair. We pushed them a few miles north then I suggested
to Lyns that we take a short cut down into T Bar canyon and come
out on the Red Cliff trail. She asked if I was crazy and I told
he yes but it would save us two hours. She allowed as how she
was game so down we headed. It is a steep trail over some really
rocky stuff. It went great, the cattle moved along and we were
going well till we came to the ice on the north slope. One bull
fell and slid about 20 feet down the slope before stopping. I
was riding Doc and I was not going to risk it and swung down
and walked around the worst of the ice. Lyns was on Ben the wonder
mule who goes barefoot. She stayed on and laughed at me as Ben
went across the ice without a care. Soon we were in the bottom
of the canyon and headed north again. About a mile up I spot
a black bull way up on the side of the canyon, how or why he
went there I have no Idea. Lyndsey hadn’t seen it when
I pointed, she groaned because it was pay back time. I told her
she and her little show off mule could just climb themselves
up there and get that bull down. Away they went and I was wishing
I had a camera as I watched them head up. The canyon rimrock
towering above them, aspen on the cliff wall, deep blue sky and
a cowgirl and her mule. It was beautiful. They got the bull down
but he didn’t want to be with the other bulls, he was a
big wussie. He took off up canyon at a run with Doc right behind
trying to turn him, finally we did but he was persistent and
Doc laid down some awesome moves and finally got him headed back.
The Red Cliff trail is hard to find even if you know where
it takes off. It was a job getting the cattle to head up that
way but finally we did and made it up and over the top. As we
came past Elladean Tank I looked to the south and in the trees
about a mile away was a large group of Elk. I pointed them out
to Lyns and as we went along we watched them flow out of the
trees and head our way. They came and they came and they came
closer all the time. Lyndsey exclaimed they were coming right
to us and sure enough they were, at a run. They came to within
50 yards, you could hear them panting and see nostrils flaring.
There were over 250 of them and a hundred yards away they came
to a stop and looked at us. It was incredible. We see amazing
things out there every day but this was really impressive. Finally
after a minute or so the lead cow Elk turned the herd away and
trotted off. One of those days you wish you had a camera. We
continued on and soon I spotted more cattle a mile or so off
up a ridge. We let the cattle we had keep going on their own
and went and got the others. There were three pairs up there
and we pushed them out hoping to meet the ones we left. Sure
enough just as we came down the others were just getting to the
gate into the south trap. We bunched them up and pushed them
all the way back to the H.Q. where we penned them. In just over
7 hours we had covered about 25 miles and had three bulls, two
heifers, and three pairs. Not bad for a day of stray riding.
Today I hauled those cattle down to the lower range and enjoyed
a little summer while I was there. It was about 60 with a sunfactor
of at least 75. chatted with Frank and looked at his progress
at the corral repair he’s doing at the Ghost Ranch H.Q.
Then headed home. No ice problems this trip thankfully.Lyndsey
left this morning to visit her mom in Sante Fe; Maggie gets home
tonight...YAHOOOOO!I am back to hauling water every day. A few
days ago we ran out of propane in Amy’s cabin, a pipe broke
and I awoke to no water. I headed out dreading what I would find.
It was a huge ice flow from her cabin down the hill and across
the drive. 3,000 gallons had drained through the house leaving
us high and dry of water in the system. There is an old homestead
about 4 miles away that has a great spring fed well. We have
a 1980 chevy one ton dually with a gas powered pump and 350 gallon
water tank on it, everyone calls it the Death Trap. I love the
truck. So every morning I drive over and pump out a load and
bring it back to fill horse tanks and any extra I pump into the
main storage tank. Then yesterday the water line at the tank
feeding the whole ranch broke so I spent the day digging that
up and playing plumber. That’s one thing about living here,
you learn to do for yourself cause no one else is going to come
and do it for you.
Chile went out with the older geldings yesterday. Boy, there
was never a happier horse! He got out there and ran circles around
the 20 acre pasture bucking and farting all the way. I was worried
he would do himself harm but he came in sound, sweaty, and feeling
good.
I am planning a 55 mile ride along the Continental Divide Trail
sometime in April so if anyone is interested let me know. I think
we will take four guests along for this one. It will be an adventure,
as we have never ridden it before. I hope to do a bit of the
trail every year. Also thinking of setting aside a week in early
April for an Elk horn hunt. The big bulls shed horns every spring
and you can find some amazing pieces. I know a great spot deep
in the Wilderness area where we could set up a base camp and
ride out from there. It is spectacular country, none like it
anywhere. So again let me know if you’re interested in
that.
January 7 - 13, 2001: No Guests
Tuesday, January 9, 2001
A lot of folks ask what we do here in the winter knowing the cattle are down
below on the lower ranch, the calves are sold, horses are out to pasture,
and no guests arriving every week. It’s quiet....but we stay busy.
The past month or so I have been doing things up here on my own. Let me tell
you it makes me appreciate my great crew. An average day starts with my feet
hitting the floor at about 6:00. This house is really cold and has no modern
heat. Oh what I would give for a thermostat! So I hurry to the stove and
put a fire under the coffee pot so it does it’s thing as I build a
fire in the woodstove and in the fireplace. I then huddle next to the fireplace
as I enjoy my first cup and watch the Weather Channel. Yes we have television;
it’s satellite and we power it with a solar system that just services
this house.
Then it’s out to feed. I am now feeding 22 head of horses
here at the H.Q. as well as 7 calves that we are using to train
some horses. Also there is one bull we call Sam, who is here
because he’s a bit run down and our beef steer we call
T Bone who will be in the freezer next week. Feeding, haying
and watering takes about two and a half hours.
I want to pass along some hints about water tanks in the winter.
Get the black rubber ones, they come in all sizes and are so
much better than the old steel tanks. In my life I have seriously
gone through hundreds of steel tanks, they rust, seams leak,
hard to clean and hard to move around and really hard to get
the ice out of due to the ridges they have. The black rubber
tubs don’t rust, no seams or ridges and due to the color
absorb heat and thaw faster.
After chores it’s back inside for a real breakfast, then
out to haul a couple loads of water from the spring. This usually
takes until lunch. After lunch I kinda switch what I do every
afternoon. One day I will work with horses or ride, the next
peel rails and fix fences, the next split wood and fix other
broken things around here. It’s never ending. Then at about
4:30 I start evening feeding getting done just after dark. Then
it’s in the house to return phone calls and do office work
till dinner. That’s my day.
Wednesday, January 10, 2001
Lyndsey is back for good and back in her usual work
mode. Today we split wood for her house and ours for hours, got
over a cord split. We now have a solid cover of snow again and
feeding hay at a high rate. So far this year we have fed out
over a thousand bales with half the haying season left to go.
We are feeding about 2 tons of grain a week. The days are still
really nice up here, temp. about 45, sunfactor about 65, nights
about 10. Frank reports the temp. at the lower range is in the
50’s with a sunfactor of over 70.
Friday, January 12, 2001
A day of spinning our wheels around here, literally.
Frank was to head up here with a load of hay and help us butcher
our steer. Lyndsey headed out to get a load of water not too
long after breakfast. I was busy in the office. About an hour
and a half later I realized she was not back yet so Maggie headed
out to find her while I waited by the phone for Frank who was
to call from Reserve before he headed up the mountain. Maggie
was back with Lyndsey in just a bit and let me know she had the
pump truck stuck on ice out at the spring. So we got in the tractor
and headed out as Maggie stood by the phone waiting for Frank’s
over due call. It was not a big job getting the truck out, just
took a lot of time as tractors are not really speed machines.
Got back and Frank had called leaving Reserve at about 2:00.
There had been talk for days of a huge storm coming in and the
sky was getting thick by the minute. Frank pulled in with the
hay about 4:00 just as it started to snow so we hurried the unloading
and sent Frank back down off the mountain. He was running so
late because he had spent three hours stuck in the mud out at
the Ghost Ranch when he went to feed early in the morning.
I have lived in Wyoming, spent time in Colorado and went to
school in Maine so I have seen a few snowstorms. But never have
I seen it snow as hard as it did here this afternoon. Visability
was less than 50 yards, almost a white out. I couldn’t
imagine being out horseback in a snow like that. It made the
November snow seem like a flurry. Of course it was at its hardest
right as we were doing chores. Lyndsey got another truck stuck
right out here in the barnyard so I fired up the tractor again
and pushed her out. It only snowed about three hours but we got
over eight inches.
Saturday, January 13, 2001
I under estimated the amount of snow; it was just about
an even foot. So that means it was coming down at about four
inches an hour. The last thing I told Lyndsey last night was
to be ready to ride at first light so we could get all the pasture
horses in to feed them some hay. She groaned and said they would
come in on their own. Right, I told her, they haven’t been
in for three months. I told her she gave them too much credit.
This morning as the dawn was getting purple I stood at the kitchen
window, coffee in hand looking at the weanlings here in the yard.
Suddenly all heads on all the horses swung the same direction,
ears erect. I went to the porch and looked the same direction
and then I too saw it. Horses came flowing over the ridge and
down the slope into the Headquarters valley. It was a thrilling
sight, snow flying as they ran, they seemed surreal in the pink
light of the dawn. They were lined out sweeping through the Ponderosa
pines that dot the slope. I counted them as they went by and
came up with seventeen, four missing. I quickly pulled on my
coat and headed out to get some hay in the truck and take it
down to the shipping pens. The horses were piled up at the gate
into the pens waiting for some one to come. I spread hay and
then opened the gate. My old mustang was the first through, stopping
at the first pile and all the other horses went around him, none
offering a challenge. He gets the respect he so rightly deserves.
He was the first horse on the ranch and will always be first
in my heart. We have over 20,000 miles together and a lot of
unbelievable stories to tell that we both know are true.
All the horses look great, most are broodmares, a few riding
mares and five two year old fillies and of course the mustang.
Coats are thick and fluffy, eyes are clear and rumps still nice
and round. These horses live outside all year round; they are
so tough it amazes me.
Chores took forever with the deep snow, finally got done and
headed in. Lyndsey was pretty smug and was quick with her "I
told ya." After eating we went out on the snowmobiles looking
for the missing mares, two Duns and two Bays. Lyndsey found them
about three miles out on a hillside the wind had swept clear
of snow. One was lying around soaking up some sun and the others
grazing happy as could be. We went on for a couple more hours
hoping to cut the trail of any stray cattle but not much had
been moving. Saw tracks of a few deer, some elk, and coyote.
It was a cold day, temp. only got up to about 20, the wind chill
negated the sun factor today. After sledding we spent the rest
of the day warming up till we had to go out and start chores
again
January 14 - 20, 2001: No Guests
Monday, January 15, 2001
UUUUGGGGHHHH I am really getting too old for winter
up here I think. The snow and cold just make the every day things
so much harder and the hard things almost impossible. Today was
a cold, blustery day, high temp. about 25, thin clouds cutting
the suns heat and a stiff 15 mph breeze all day, and this after
a night of -6 degrees.
Water is at the critical level here now. We only have about
600 gallons in our 5,000 gallon storage tank. The spring is frozen
solid and the line broken. I will fix the line once it starts
to flow again but with these sub zero nights that might be a
while. We can’t get the pump truck to the spring to haul
water, it’s not four wheel drive, so we can’t haul
any water in. I headed out with the tractor to plow out the spring
road and just half way down the drive way the hub on one of the
rear wheels broke, the wheel came off and the tractor crashed
down on top of it pinning it to the frozen road. So now I will
have to figure a way of jacking that huge tractor off the wheel,
loading it in a truck and taking it to get welded. I spent several
hours walking along the stream that flows through the H. Q. valley
here passing through all the pastures chopping ice with an axe
in each one. It’s a lot of work. We have a well, 700 ft
deep here at the H.Q. that we use in emergencies. It hasn’t
run since summer and of course the generator that runs it has
a few problems that I was not planning on having to fix right
away.
So Lyndsey went to Albq. to get parts. There is supposed to
be a big storm coming in tomorrow so she is trying to do a quick
turn around to get back ahead of it. Vaquero came in with a nasty
puncture wound to his elbow, spent time hot packing and flushing
that, started him on antibiotics. At feeding this evening it
was really hurting him. I may have to take him to the vet, not
looking forward to trailoring off the mountain. The roads are
snow packed and really slick. I do have to get down to the lower
ranch and just look things over; the drive has made me procrastinate
too long already.
Tuesday, January 16, 2001
Another day on the road. I called a vet friend about Vaquero and he told me
he could meet me in Reserve as he was headed through there about noon. So
I loaded Vaquero in the trailer, his first ride by himself. I left in a light
snow and went out what we call the "back way." It goes over Elk
Mtn. to Horse Springs. It's a bit over 50 miles off dirt road before you
get to pavement on Hwy. 12. About an hour longer to town but no really steep
grades. Got there with no problems but had a huge bank of snow chasing me
the whole way which swept in just as I got into town and met the Dr. It's
only out here in Reserve new mexico where you can drive down Main St. and
see a horse being treated in front of the courthouse. The Dr. opened up his
swollen shoulder and went in 6 inches to pull out a bit of trees debris.
After he was done and it was well drained Vaquero was feeling much better.
I did some errands and then headed up the mountain the usual way. There was
heavy snow falling and about half way up I put spurs on all four corners...cowboy
slang for putting chains on all four wheels. The snow got deeper and deeper
every half mile I went. When I got to my favorite long steep grade there
was over two feet in the road. Thank goodness for chains and Ford Powerstrokes.
That diesel was churning with all its might as I pushed snow with my bumper
and dragged it with the back of my trailer. I was shouting encouragement
as the truck groaned its way to the top getting there just as I lost my momentum
and cleared the rim at about half a mile per hour. The snow was deep all
the way. What usually takes a bit over an hour took almost three. I just
really didn't want to get stuck with a lame horse in the trailer. Finally
I pulled in the yard and sighed my relief. Not too long after I got in Lyndsey
got home coming in the back way saying it was really not too bad till just
a few miles from the H.Q.
We are totally out of water here now, not even enough to fill a drinking glass.
Tomorrow we will shovel off the well head, put new parts on the generator and
hope to get the pump going. All fingers and toes are crossed as we hope we
got the right parts and that I can figure out what to do with them.
Wednesday, January 17, 2001
Pretty miserable day around the old ranchero. After an over night low of -11,
the morning was grey and snowy. Lyndsey woke to a temp of 22 in her kitchen,
these old houses are just no fun to live in during the winter. I got up every
three hours to put wood on the fires and still we were in the low 50s in this
house. Chores again took forever, breaking ice is getting harder due to the
fact the ponds and streams are freezing solid to the bottom. We finally got
done and ate, then went out into the snow to do some plumbing. Lyndsey helped
as I pieced the water line back together then worked on the generator. Amazingly
it all went together as it should and finally started. We had water flowing
in the tank at about a gallon a min.!
Deciding to speed up the filling process we dismantled the pump equipment off
the 2 wheel drive Chevy and put it all back together again on my truck. This
involved taking the tank off, building a wood frame base in my truck to keep
it off the ball hitch in the bed of my truck. And taking the pump and generator
and jury rigging it into my truck. Finally about four p.m. I headed to the
spring. It had snowed about another six inches, and on the spring road there
was well over two feet. The truck churned its way through, bogging down a few
times but making it. I pumped 400 gallons in the tank and slogged on back to
the H.Q. the ton and a half of water helped at times and slowed us at others.
When I finally made it back to the ranch I turned the valve on the tank and
nothing happened. The valve had frozen in the time it took to get back. Now
as it grew dark I had 400 gallons of water I could do nothing with. Finally
we rigged some junk hoses and siphoned it out.... sloooooooowly..... into a
stock tank and about 250 gallons went out on the ground. It was that or have
the tank freeze and split. Now the pump on the well is running all night, Lyndsey
and I are taking turns getting up every three hours to refuel it. It's my turn
at 1:00 A.M. Hard to get out the door as the temp. is about -13 right now and
a stiff wind
January 21 - 27, 2001: No Guests
Tuesday, January 23, 2001
Things have settled down a bit, the water crisis is over. We ran the pump for
four days, 24 hours a day and now have a full tank, 3,000 gallons. Damn it's
a good feeling. It's been snowing every morning till about 10:00, adding
a couple new inches every time then sunny in the afternoon. Friday I drove
down to the lower ranch and stayed over night. It sure was nice and warm.
Pulled in the drive and Frank was working on a truck in a T-shirt. Tanya
had arrived the day before, she and her horse getting here safely after a
long trip from Wisconsin. They hit a bit of weather in Texas but missed most
of a big storm. I went and checked the horses at the Ghost Ranch then headed
back up top on Saturday to be met with a high Temp. of 17 for the day. Frank
took the Dodge and flat bed trailer and went to Clovis New Mex. and picked
up 10 round bales of wheat and oat hay mix. Really nice hay, each bale runs
about 1200 pounds. It's about a seven hour drive over, he stayed the night
and got back late the next night. I met him in Horse Springs and hooked the
trailer to my Ford because there was no way the Dodge was going to pull that
load through the snow up the mountain. With the trailer and hay it was over
17,000 pounds. The Power Stroke in that truck really got a work out. Monday
was spent putting out bales in all the different pastures. There sure were
some happy horses. Yesterday evening at chores I saw all the horses looking
into the trees on the valley slope and soon here came three pair of cattle.
From where I have no idea and how they got in the horse pasture I haven't
a clue. I guess they smelled the feed some ways off and came on in. I hauled
four 2 year old colts down to the lower H.Q. Now that Tanya is back it's
time to start training. I am staying over here tonight so tomorrow we can
go out to the Ghost Ranch and try to find the other eight young horses we
are going to start. I love this time of year and getting the young guys working.
Just beautiful weather down here. I left up top in a blinding snow and two
hours later I pulled in here to 60 degrees. Tanya and I sat out on the porch
this evening and watched the sun go down. As I enjoyed a spring evening in
January I vowed I would not spend another winter up top, I'm tired of being
Daniel Boone. As the crow flies the two headquarters are only 14 miles apart,
though it takes over two hours on a good day to drive there. But it is such
a difference 4,000 feet in elevation make. The Filiree (a type of grass)
is green and I heard that Crocuses were already breaking ground.
Thursday, January 25, 2001
Yesterday was just great weather down below. I walked out in the morning and
just got a thrill at how balmy it was. Folks in the cold weather country know
the feeling I mean. You get it after a long, cold, grey winter and then that
first spring day takes you by surprise. You can smell the moist earth and feel
a warm breeze and the sun on your face and it lifts your heart and spirits.
We went out to the Ghost ranch and just as needed all the young horses were
there. We loaded up five and brought them back to the lower H.Q. I hadn't seen
them in a few months, damn we have some nice horses. We are working Dakota,
Cowboy, Frio, Cool Eye, King, and Smoke. After getting them unloaded and Tanya
lined out on what I wanted done to them I went and looked at a ranch for sale.
I am thinking of going farther in debt so I can have some more winter country
and increase my herd size a bit next year. Then as much as I didn't want to
I left the warm low country and drove back up the mountain, plowing through
deep snow and sliding on slick roads.
Today I put out more round bales of hay, 20 horses ate 1100 pounds in three
days. But it was still cheaper..about .75 cents per day per horse.. and I think
it is a lot healthier for them than just getting a pile set in front of them
twice a day. This way they can put fuel in the furnace all night long on these
sub zero nights. Frank came up with a trailer load of firewood we unloaded
just before lunch, after eating we headed out to the 7HL line camp and picked
up some portable panels. The roads were a mess, the sun was strong yesterday
and today so the dirt two track roads were deep mud by mid afternoon. We are
in mud season now I guess. Folks in New England tell tales of mud season, well
we have it just as bad here. Around here folks come and go "on the freeze" meaning
you best be out by 9:00 in the morning if you want to get out at all and can't
get back home till after dark when the mud has frozen and stiffened up. After
tying the panels on the side of the trailer we then went to the shipping pens
and put a heck of a load of cattle on Frank's trailer. One bull, three cows,
and seven 400+ pound calves. I was planning to take a few horses down but decided
to stick around here and split some wood. Then it was chore time, then the
day was done.
Friday, January 26, 2001
Cold day up here, high of only about 20 with thin clouds keeping the sun factor
non existent. Nights have warmed up a bit, now up into the single digits above
zero. Last night was 7 degrees. After chores and a few odd job things around
here I loaded up three horses in my trailer and Lyndsey put a load of tack
in her truck and we headed down to the lower ranch.
It's amazing how much tack I have collected in ten years. When I came into
this country I had a horse, a halter, saddle, headstall and a couple old worn
out pads. Now the tack room must hold 60 saddles, over a hundred headstalls
and who knows how many halters. There are two stacks of pads and blankets six
feet tall. Often when I buy a horse the people throw in the tack and I used
to go to a lot of auctions. All the tack of course is in constant need of care,
so that's Tanya's job on cold days and in the evenings. She cleans and inspects
everything, tagging what needs to go to the saddle maker for real repairs.
He loves seeing us pull in. We take it to a fellow in Silver City dropping
it off in the winter when he is slow and needs the work. Usually it's a lot
of tie strings that get broken but with the amount of miles we put on there
are at least four or five saddles that need new lining every year. Most of
our equipment and horses work over 2500 miles a year.
The roads aren't getting any better but we made it down slowly with no problems.
I didn't stay more than 30 min. just went over with Frank what I wanted fixed,
built and cleaned up around the H.Q. Got a progress report from Tanya on all
her students, everyone is doing well. It was nice pulling up and seeing all
11 young horses standing quietly, all saddled and being perfect horses. She
rode Cool Eye and said he was the most awesome moving horse she had ridden
in a long time. He's awesome looking too, a big dark sorrel with a flaxen mane
and tail, four white socks, wide blaze and blue eyes. He just has a presence
about him. Then it was back up the mountain again and into the snow. It had
been cloudy down there but warm, close to 60.
We got the material for a new round pen down there which I hope we can get
done in the next week.
I have four 2 year old fillies now up here at the house. They are wild as the
wind, never been touched, so I hope to get a handle on them in the next few
weeks and then send them down to Tanya after they are halter broke. Messing
with some yearling colts also, they are home raised so they are all good kids.
They all stand tied, pick feet, saddle and load in a trailer. We will be riding
them in the late summer. Right now I am instilling leg and rein cues in them
just by the way I touch them as I work with them on a lead. It helps a lot
to do it now before you start riding them. They are all sharp as tacks and
have picked it up perfectly in just a few short lessons.
This morning there is a gusty wind blowing to 35- 40 mph, not too cold about
20 but cloudy, the weather channel is calling for heavy snow along the Mongollon
Rim country...ugggghhhhhh.
Sunday, January 28, 2001
The snow started yesterday about noon and quit about
chore time, another 10 inches. The weather kept me inside doing
office stuff, Lyndsey spent the day painting the inside of her
house, Maggie as usual was slaving in her studio. Down below
they got a dusting of snow then the sun was out to melt it fast.
Tanya worked her horses a short session due to wind and drizzel,
Frank worked on corral repairs till the chill ran him inside.
Today was spent putting out hay, busting ice after an over night
low of 4 above. Split wood for a while then took a snowmobile
run to hunt for tracks. Went down into Rocker Canyon about 2
miles behind the house. I had to turn around as the snow was
to deep for the snowmobile that started bogging down. There was
at least 3 feet in there. At evening chores I found that Fancy,
one of the 2 y.o. fillies had been kicked in the eye. It’s
got a big gash above it and it badly swollen. Unfortunately she
is not touchable much less halter broke so there is little I
can do for her. Just hope she does not lose her sight. She’s
a real pretty little sorrel filly with a perfect blaze and wonderful
mover. I bought her and two others from a local rancher. For
those of you who have been here, they are all half sisters to
Chancey, that great cow mare we have. Actually Fancy is her full
sister, the other two are half sisters. The stud they are by
just makes real cowy kids.
Tomorrow I will head down to the lower ranch probably for the
week. We are going to hunt up some unbranded pairs that are still
at large as well 25 heifers I bought from John that we will gather
and move to Alma corrals. There we will run them through the
squeeze chute and brand and tag them. This is the start of the
time of year I see little of my wife. Now till June I will be
down below while she takes care of things up here. Last spring
we saw each other about 6 days out of 60. Well I guess absence
makes the heart grow fonder. I also plan on getting out and riding
some of the other ranch I am looking to buy. It is the WS ranch,
any of you who have read
“Recollections Of A Western Ranchman” know the ranch.
It lies right next to the rest of the lower range but is mostly
in the BLUE PRIMITIVE AREA of Arizona. It is a very famous ranch
and has a lot of history about it. It was the end of the “Outlaw
trail” that ran all the way up to Hole In The Wall in Wyoming.
January 28 - 31, 2001: No Guests
Tuesday, January 30, 2001
Yesterday was a putz day. It was really windy all weekend but blew even harder
Sunday night and then all day Monday. The wind gusted to well over 50 mph,
clearing the open country of snow and dumping it in the trees. It was a white
out at times with a bright sun overhead making it a strange, bright, sparking
light. Needless to say spent most of the time hiding from the weather, in
the barn, in the shop, just putzing doing little stuff.
Today I was up at 4:30 and on the road at 5:00 headed to the
lower ranch to meet John and Alan. The first three or four miles
of the road were not bad, five or six inches with a few one to
two foot drifts. Then I hit Negrito Creek Canyon and good God
was there snow. All that had blown off the top the past three
days was heaped up in the road for the next twenty miles. I chained
up all four wheels and plowed ahead. Top speed was 6 to 7 mph
with the engine cranking. The snow as at least 20 inches everywhere
with hundred yard long 3 foot drifts. At an area called Sheep
Basin, which is always the deepest in snow, the Ford finally
could go now more so I had to get out and start breaking a trail
for it with a shovel. I’d do 50 yards at a time and then
walk back to the truck and drive it ahead then shovel some more.
It was still pitch dark, the temp was about 10, but let me tell
ya I stayed plenty warm. I only had to do about a quarter mile
but that was more than enough. I finally got to Reserve three
hours later, it’s normally just over an hour. But it was
all worth it due to the sunrise I got to see. As I was coming
off the mountain rim the view west into Arizona stretches out
for a hundred miles down the Mongollon Rim. The mountains as
far as you could see where aglow in a deep purple then fading
into a soft golden shine. It was breathtaking. I had to stop
and watch awhile, I don’t take this country for granted.
Finally got to Alma and met the guys and we made a plan to ride
Sunflower Mesa country looking for big pairs, unbranded pairs,
and heifers. I had to go out to the Ghost Ranch where Ben the
mule is living now so we all split up planning on meeting out
there somewhere. I caught up Ben and saddled him up and headed
out. He really didn’t want to work the first hour. The
footing was terrible on the lower slopes, energy sucking deep
mud and lots and lots of rocks. He was slow and ploddy as we
headed up the slopes and I was getting kinda frustrated with
him. Then we ran into cattle and bingo I was riding a different
mule. We were on the steep south-facing slope of Vigil Canyon
and he was all over the place up and down getting the cattle
pushed up onto level ground. There we cut off three pairs and
four heifers. We pushed them back down a mile or so till they
were settled in line and let them drift and went to check a tank.
There I met up with John and Alan and we went up a couple more
miles and then spilt again heading around and back towards the
Ghost Ranch. I took the steep side of the canyon in the rocks
and trees and brush. It was an area John had warned me away from
for years and I realized why. I would not have led another animal
where I rode that mule. He is absolutely the most incredible
ride I have ever had. Where he can go and go with confidence
is amazing. I never once caught my breath at a bad step or stumble,
there wasn’t one. And pardon my french but we were in the
shit! And we found cattle.
We came out at the end of the canyon with 7 pairs and 9 heifers.
I held them up at the spring corrals. Alan showed up a half hour
later having not seen a cow. We pushed the cattle out and up
on the mesa where we met John who had brought down the first
bunch I had started earlier in the day. We moved them down to
the Ghost ranch. It was nice to have the three amigos riding
together again. We penned and sorted the cattle, cutting the
calves off and trucking them down to the Alma corral to be weaned.
We will hold all the heifers there in the ranch trap pasture
till we get enough to push to Alma and re-brand with my brand.
Any of you coming out in the next few weeks have that to look
forward to. Tomorrow we are going to ride my least favorite area....
Carcass Basin.
Wednesday, January 31, 2001
Woke to a temp. of 20 down here, everyone was whining and moaning. It is unusually
cold for the lower country but it still felt pretty good to me. The day ended
up getting to about 50 with lots of sun. I headed out and got Ben about 9:30
after a morning of making phone calls. I went up into Vigil Canyon where
I had seen five of our horses at a distance yesterday. I had thought one
looked lame. I found them right where I had seen them and a really nice three-year-old
line back dun named Cimmarron was really footsore. I turn out most of my
horses unshod, but some you can’t do that with. Cimmarron is one, he
wore down his hooves faster than they grew and is just really tender. I tried
leading him back with Ben but after a mile or so I gave that up as Ben is
such a fast walker and Cimmarron was going so slow they had me stretched
out like a scarecrow. I got off Ben and tied the reins up and led Cimmarron
on foot the two miles home. Ben was funny, he walked with us awhile then
got bored with our pace and went on ahead. He stopped every few min. to wait
for us and would let out a big mule bray telling us to hurry up. It was after
noon by the time we got to the corrals. I closed Cimm up and gave him some
hay then loaded Ben in the trailer. We went a few miles over to Ridge Well
Corrals and rode around looking for pairs and heifers. After an hour we had
one heifer and two pairs. The pairs were a real pain, the cows didn’t
like each other and keep wanting to go two different directions. The heifer
had no idea who to follow. Ben really had to work his butt off. Going after
one, then the other, then back to get the other one, then back to the other
one. Over and over, we both got pretty pissed off. Finally got them to a
gate and into the next pasture. I didn’t see John or Alan all day but
did see their tracks at the gate. I stopped at his house and talked to John
this evening on my way home. I was hoping they had gone into Carcass Basin
today, turns out they didn’t because they were hoping my mule and I
had gone in there. So I guess that’s where Ben and I will go in the
morning.
Sent Tanya to look at a horse for sale this afternoon, told
her it was her deal and make it if she thought the horse was
worth the asking price. She left nervous but really liked the
horse and made an offer for me. We will find out tomorrow if
they will take her offer. Frank and I have been giving her a
hard time all evening joking that she probably bought a three
legged, one eyed, 46 year old horse. I am sure it will be a fine
one, she was full of praise for it.
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